Bu bölümde Slovenya biki örtüsünden ve dünyanın en uzun geçitlerinden bahsedeceğiz.
Şubat 10: Monfalcone – Koper (Slovenia)
Distance: 58 km
Min. Height: 0m, Max. Height: 388 m
Height: 370 m
Geçen 10 günden sonra İtalyaya elveda diyoruz. Burada süper zaman geçirdik diyemeyiz ama yine de üzgünüz biraz. Bisikletçi olarak artık bambaşka mecralara açılacağız çünkü.
Monafolcadan kısa süre sonra, üç hafta boyunca bütün Arnavutluk coğrafyasında bize eşlik edecek manzara ile karşılaşıyoruz; denize inen tebeşir kayalık uçurumlar, sarp yamaçlar. Manzara gerçekten görülmeye değer.
200 bin kişilik nüfusuyla Trieste bisikletle geçtiğimiz Münihten sonraki en büyük şehir.Trafik ışıkları, geniş bulvarlar. Triestenin şu an bisikletçilere ihtiyacı olmadığını düşünerek Slovenyaya doğru ilerliyoruz. Yaya geçidlerinden, karavan yollarından.Slovenyaya girerken kendimizi doğu bloğuna girecek gibi hissediyoruz.
Slovenya bize gıcık yokuşlar ve kötü asfaltla merhaba dedi. Konuşabilseydim “bak buradayım ama bizi önemseme lütfen, biz kesinlikle önemsiziz, sadece geçip gideceğiz. Slovenya eski yugoslavya ve sovyet bloğu ülkesi ama onlardan en gelişmişi gibi. Yani açıkçası İtalyadan bir fark göremedik yaşam standardı olarak. Slovenyaya bir şans verelim dedik, manzaraysa manzara…
The search for accommodation is proving more difficult than expected. In the first village after the border the only hotel has closed. Upcoming Hotels were in Koper, we are told, that is far off our route to the coast. That would recklessly away all altitude that we just worked laboriously through the slopes.
Not far from the city we discover a sign that points to the restaurant and accommodation. Quick receives our delight a damper, because obviously you have now inserted a rest day. We knock on several doors, but no one opens. Only the rooms are open.Theoretically, we could carry our luggage up and unasked to base yourself in actually closed pension. While we are debating holding a silver Renault Kangoo beside us. It is the owner who still can recommend a restaurant to us, which is to be located 300 meters away.
The restaurant just Slovenian Hitradio runs with the best English-language hits from the 80s / 90s / 00s and today. But Michael Jackson and Christina Aguileira be acoustically overlaid by Italian soap operas, the drone over from an old tube TV for us.Moreover, at the bar a few Slovenian Oppas have gathered that in record time empty their beers to complete this multi-cultural cacophony of horror. In between sitting Minxin and I in a plate of salad, and yell at us.
the Adria is something for the eye (ol); first acquaintance with the Karst (OM); Trieste, the last city in Italy (UL); Neuland: Erstbetretung Slovenia (ur)
FEBRUARY 11: Koper – Vranja
Distance: 55 km
Min. Height: 6 m, Max. Height: 442 m
Altitude: 925 m
With empty purses (no bank nearby) we cycle along a well-maintained and rarely traveled road inland to Croatia. Today, two passes are waiting for us, which will demand aggregated more altitude than the Reschenpass 10 days previously and so if something does not operate between the teeth.
We quickly find a little restaurant on the roadside, but that does not accept Maestro or credit cards. We push the waitress our puny rest of small change over. On a total of EUR 5.30 amounts our budget, in contrast, is a megalomaniac menu on the dimensions of a Brockhaus Encyclopedia. The meals are in five different languages - Slovenian, Serbo-Croatian, English, German, Italian – written so that only two dishes to be found on one side of space. We starve at the poverty level, but after intensive studying the menu, we are able to configure for two people a menu that copes with an optimal balancing act, taking into account all relevant factors such as number of calories, carbohydrate and vitamin content: tomato-cucumber salad, plus a small portion of chips for a total of 5.20 euros – an ingenious way you can to the frits order still free mayonnaise. And even ketchup, but we do not want to be immoderate. The need to extend this afternoon, because to the Croatian border, we will pass only two small villages with no bank.
The road zigzags from a canyon up to the Karst Plateau. From there, still greets one last time the majestic panorama of the Alps.Now we will turn to the cricket leagues Croatian coast with its numerous islands, fjords and bays.
Somewhat unexpectedly, we are at a time in front of a border crossing. It is the first time that our identification documents are required. The border officials screened us with a stern look, finally, we have disturbed him while looking a Youtube video.According quickly and dispassionately then runs the clearance.
“And – that’s it with Slovenia,” laughs Minxin. I said: ‘Yes, I had told you that going fast “. You: “So small? If yes sweet “I”. Did you know actually, that Slovenia has won once in football against China “.
Thin ice, because the country that we will now sail, has bowled Germany in 1998 in the quarterfinals of the World Cup and 2008 spooked quite a shock at the European Championships in the first round.
Before we can argue out that takes a red Japanese small car next to us to a halt. The head of a completely unknown to me young men – I do not know anyone in Croatia – stretches out the window: “Ride your bike to China?”. “Uh … yes … think so. Had we at least before. “” Do you need more for a hotel in Zadar? “. “Uh … yes. Why not good. I am now first in Slovenia on the road, but in a week back. Then I will send you an e-mail. Until then. “” Tell me, how do you know actually who we are and what we do? “” Have about the CouchSurfing network out of you. And you are the first and only bikers I’ve met here. ”
Well then, first welcome in Croatia
The country has joined in the summer of 2013. the EU, and it shows at first glance. Between the dilapidated and brightly painted corner shops have been rammed forwarders and supermarkets. Roadside resplendent spotless EU traffic signs, road markings are calibrated EU, the truffle homegrown meet EU standards and announced on large partitions projects are also EU funded. But will be paid in the national currency kuna.
Speaking of money, we finally find an ATM in Buzet, the first town across the border and can armed with cereal bars, fruit and water dare little attacking the second pass later. This functions without problems and for the first time we feel real fun Beradeln of mountain roads. 15km behind the pass we relate in an inexpensive guesthouse quarters. Our poor, homesick souls prefers again tonight at the bar. There, the male village crowd has already gathered and is currently embroiled in a heated debate, which we can well follow surprising since felt every third word either “Radio”, Komputar ” or “Television” appears to be. Mostly it follows the word “problem” and a violent burst of laughter. What does that mean, however? Has anyone tried unsuccessfully in this village, to open an electronics store?
Transit country Slovenia (o.); last look back to the Alpine ridge (ml) views of Istria (mm); frustrated Couch Surfer (UL); Buzet, the city of truffles (to)
FEBRUARY 12: Vranja – Filosici (island of Cres)
Distance: 43 km (including 38 km by bicycle)
Min. Height: -4 m Max. Height: 314 m
Altitude: 412 m
We cycle through the hilly Istria, and orient us to the GPS tracks that Tobi and Daniela have sent us. The route leads off the main street of tiny villages over which have not yet been covered by the EU money rain. In the sun rusting old Lada and Zastava with an unclear purpose to himself, while chickens and geese cackling wiggle across the street.
We would like now to take the ferry to the island of Cres, in order to spare us the detour via the coastal road to Rijeka vielbefahrende afternoon. But we have been warned by many people: on the opposite bank lurks the meanest cyclists case of Europe, because the ferry port on the island consists of only one bar with no place to stay. These are available again only 27km away in the homonymous capital of the island, after crossing a steep 450m high ball. That’s us all fully aware as we board the ferry and the afternoon is already coming to an end. At the tiny port arrived, we enter somewhat at a loss in the pedals, knowing that this will still be a long, tiring day of driving, which will take place largely in the dark.
After the first few meters, a red van stops next to us and we’ll see the Croatian alter ego of Mick Jagger opposite. This is Igor, who offers us to load the bikes into his car and we make clear a place to sleep for the night. Initially, I still hesitate, but quickly extinguished my ambition and I agree.
Igor lives with his family an estate in an abandoned village. Having already tried himself as a stage designer, trawlers and musicians, he decided to leave and move to the mountains 10 years ago Rijeka. First he renovated the decaying houses, then he set out to do carpentry the right furniture for it. Today he keeps goats, operates beekeeping, distilled liquor, bakes its own bread and offers guest rooms decorated with paintings by Australian artists on – when it lost someone randomly in the area. After a site has not Igor, and a sign on the roadside is missing. “If everything goes through word of mouth,” he assures us. “People come by itself and over again.”
So who got lost on the island of Cres: simply take the road uphill from the harbor, and turn left into a dirt road 5 km. Do visit the best kept secret of the Adriatic.
“You will not get bored, so alone up here in the mountains?” We ask. “I have enough to do. But what is sad: the villages are dying out slowly. The young people cut down all to the cities. And the government does not care about the islands, and only when there are hotels that earn money. They do four months a year. We live here but throughout the year. ”
Zastava 600 (ol); the sea has us again (ml); Igors Reich (mm – ur)
FEBRUARY 13: Filosici – Mali Lovenj (island of Cres)
Distance: 77 km
Min. Height: -1 m, Max. Height: 446 m
Difference in altitude: 1,033 m
When I come staggering out of the bar, white Minxin immediately that something must have happened. I’m absolutely sober, but just smoke a cigarette. Now smoking does not fit into activity profile of “extreme bikers” as we recently Hildesheimer Allgemeine Zeitung has dubbed. Also, I am 6 years Non smoking. But first things first.
The island of Cres is a topographical phenomena: 85km long long and at some point a few kilometers wide, it has approximately the same shape as Sylt, but is geographically four times as large. Only 3,000 people settled along the steep coast, each inhabitant come converted eight sheep. Just before this one has warned us. They would block the road, which would have fatal consequences, whom you would not in time to a halt after a curve. The first should not be our concern, because it goes uphill. After we the first half of the pitch last night have come in the car, while the remaining 200 meters of altitude, however, are no longer a problem.
The landscape has changed quite a bit. The predominant in Istria pine forest has now been superseded by Karger Machhie- and Heidevegtation, grazing on the sheep.
After a fast descent where we break all speed records, we reach Cres, the capital of the island, where we spend the lunch break.Relatively soon as possible thereafter again for 280 meters upwards, but all the more lengthy perceive the path downhill to the harbor town Mali Lovenj. On steep descents always follow long climbs, to blow us inexorably towards the Bora. During our hours cut noticeably decreases, further mischief announces: curiously starts with us both at the same time to tweak our left knees.Only harmless, it is on slopes later painful. Why is that? Were the last few days since Trieste too strenuous for us? Anyway, we have only one goal: quickly reach Mali Lovenj, tomorrow the ferry take in the cities of Zadar or Split mainland and insert an additional day off for sightseeing there. Until we have however reached the end of the island, the road leads again uphill.Although the slopes are harmless, we reduce the speed to 6-7 km / h. At such moments it is necessary to turn off the brain and restore all individual needs. As if in a trance I cycle slowly upward, while the GPS device slowly converts meters to feet.
We reach Mali Lovenj only when already darkness has settled over the Adriatic Sea. With more than 1,000 meters of altitude and total 75km distance, the rugged Mediterranean island Cres has demanded all our skill. Now the last points deleted from the To-Do list – get ferry ticket for tomorrow and find a place to stay for the night, then this day has been completed. Because the ticket office already has concluded, I am trying to obtain the information in a bar.
As a grown man full of pride and dignity I enter the bar and shaken as battered Psycho wreck out again. With cigarette in hand.”What is?” Asks Minxin. “No Ferry tomorrow?”. “Yes, no ferry.” “When is the next? The day after tomorrow? “” No. On Friday. “” Yes “But today it’s Friday.” Today is Friday. A ferry per week. Today’s has lifted its anchor two hours ago. ”
So we are one day pedaled in the longest dead end of the world and have now reached the turning area. We heard in Cres still significantly more optimistic versions of Croatian Fährfahrplans. Every day one in the morning to Zadar told us the friendly waiters in the fish restaurant. Every day an evening meant the cashier at the grocery store. Someone else thought we would have to wait one extra day, on Saturday they would one day of rest. Everything okay, but wait a week for us is not an option. 80km over the seven mountains back cycle to begin again from scratch, however, any more than our knees need a break. The last spark of hope disappears when we learn that the smaller catamarans Although daily sail to Rijeka, but take no bikes. Friday the 13th.
Looking for a property we err aimlessly along the promenade until Minxin finally appeals to a younger lady. No, most inns and hotels were closed, answers this, but you know someone who would privately and cheap rent room, even in this time of year.And then everything goes in a flash.
So runs the in Croatia – appeal anyone, one will already know someone who can help us. In fact, Gordana can not only book a room made available, they want to put in a good word even with the shipping company to us. Two phone calls later, we are in possession of an exemption for the transport of bicycles on catamarans. In the off season you could even turn a blind eye, it calms us. The only catch: the catamaran runs to Rijeka, so in the wrong way, but we hope that we will easily come to Zadar or Split from there by bus, train or boat because of me as this little island village. Either way we now remains a day off to relax in Mali Lovenj.
Island panoramas (above), the island’s capital, has a population of 2,500 inhabitants (mm); you will not starve in Croatia (mr); still a long journey to your destination (ur)
February 14, 2015: in Mali Losinj
We work from cafe to cafe along the beach boardwalk and leave a trail of destruction. According to GPS we ate yesterday 6,000 calories burned but since almost 24 hours nothing. After several portions ice cream, cakes and fried anchovies matures the knowledge that there will be nothing left to eat within 20km if we do not we soon mastered.
Therefore, hurry off to the village street, where will be held a carnival parade today. In fact, this is already in full swing and dare an excursion towards Croatian engineering. Instead of the usual floats, from which rain down sweets and confetti, chasing the people of Mali Losinj in specially constructed soapbox the old streets down. What can I say? A raging German beer tent, Fred Flintstone in his Stone Age body, Charles Lindbergh are just some of the highlights during the Atlantic crossing, a DIY-Mercedes S-class limo and a Venetian ship. The mood is relaxed accordingly, only a shaved giant in alpha bomber jacket may not quite fit into the picture at first, until it in a pink – with roasaroten Luv past races Gaymobil us.
cloudy weather, good mood: Carnival in Mali Losinj
FEBRUARY 15: From Mali Lovenj through Rijeka to Split
Go back to Los, not pull a 4,000 DM, etc. = We board the ferry to Rijeka and are equal faced with the next piece of bad news: there are no ferry in the winter of Rijeka to the south. Trains and buses on the other hand already, just take this with no bikes.Hm. “The best way is by bicycle,” said later the ticket vendor at the port of Rijeka smiling. Again hm. Okay, let’s call the whole thing “Bike to Asia”, so we should not even try public transport. Only, as already mentioned, the coastal road in Croatia was expanded highway like in recent years and accordingly busy. And yes, certainly there is as yet little alternative side roads, but they mean a long detour. In mid-March we should have reached Turkey, because then goes Mixnins 30 days visa los.
As we learn later, put the Croatian shipping operators in financial difficulties and have canceled numerous flights in recent months. This becomes painfully apparent especially in the off season.
“Try the bus station over, maybe take anyway bicycles”, proposes the ticket seller. “The station is right opposite 500m. If you step on the pedals, you are there immediately. Only – there’s a little problem. ”
Which, we will immediately notice. Already after the first few meters, we are surrounded by Godzillas, Teletubbies and Mickey Mice and threatening in this inferno of flashy costumes, pumping bass and gröhlendem party people to become disoriented.Another carnival parade! The world’s third largest explains to us. Every few feet a shoulder Klopfer, a sip of brandy and interesting questions: “Where do you come from? What are you doing here? “. “We celebrate carnival with you, dressed up as bicyclists,” we give to understand. With every sip of alcohol my motivation stop by at the bus station and there to clarify something goes out. And why, if it is so nice here? Still there are 300 meters to go, that would be the equivalent of about 6-7 and 0.5 per thousand more brandy. Will we make it? Or is our will slacken before?
To you not too long in suspense: we’ll create it then quite easily and find out that the next bus departs southbound immediately.And like check personally with bikes for a small fee, this we need but the bus driver. I ran to the bus while Minxin care of the bicycles and unerringly our lunch together provides the fast food stand: croissants and pizza corners. The bus driver is not to speak, he just needs to Gandalf and Kung Fu Panda pictures. So back to the ticket office to buy tickets, then to the bus, then collect the bikes and back to the bus. Done, ready to go.
The route runs completely unspectacular. Or should I write that we constantly wegnicken during the 7 hour drive along the picturesque Adriatic coast and still view Gravity now? We leave Zadar are left in the dark and reach Split, our next stopover. And Zadar? Let’s read us on Wikipedia by.